2014 Miwok 100k Race Report - Part II

Jump to part one here.

The cliffs above Pirate's Cove, overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

The 2014 Miwok 100k course can be thought of in 2 distinct parts. The first 50k begins at Stinson Beach, climbs 1800' in the first 2 miles, then tracks 11 miles out across grassy hillsides and through redwood forests to the Randall Trail aid station. The course then heads back through the forest and across the hills along the same route to the Cardiac aid station (basically above Stinson) and finishes with a 5 mile descent to Muir Beach. The second 50k is sort of a figure 8 that begins at Muir Beach, extends out through Tennessee Valley, loops around Rodeo Valley, back to Tennessee Valley, Muir Beach, Cardiac, then finishes at Stinson. A full map of the course can be found here. 

I finished the first half of the race a little tired but determined. I had just checked in at Muir Beach, compared notes with Michelle, and was about to begin the next long, slow climb. Michelle had located a prime parking spot at the busy beachfront and had planned on remaining there and waiting for my return trip through this aid station later in the day. The next aid station would be less accessible so it made sense for her to wait there - plus, she would get to spend some time on the beach. For someone who loves the ocean as much as she does the location of this aid station was perfect for her! It was a great place to hang out, people watch, and just enjoy the day. It was a little too cold to swim - for us, anyway. (The locals were not deterred by the cooler temperatures!)

Life's a beach for the crew chief!

My day was quickly becoming anything but a day at the beach. I had left the aid station and was moving slowly up the next steep grade. I had convinced myself earlier in the day that the first climb out of Stinson would be the toughest. "It's all downhill from here!" Well, not so much. I was slowed to a hike as the trail wound up and around a series of open hillsides surrounded by a variety of small plants, shrubs and grasses. One thing I will say for this climb is that the smaller fauna along the trail allowed for some incredible views of the surrounding mountains and the bay off in the distance. The terrain was not technical so footing was not an issue but I was becoming a little frustrated with my inability to handle the climbs. Occasionally a runner would pass me (yes, some people actually ran up this hill; parts of it, anyway) but I kept my pace slow and steady. 

When I finally crested the hill I was once again awestruck by the view from the top. If there is one thing that this course offered it was amazing views that would quickly take my mind off of my sore and burning quads and hamstrings. I may sound like a broken record but being in this place was an experience I will never forget, and I was thankful that the weather cooperated and allowed me to fully appreciate the majesty of these hills and mountains.

The scene began to change again as I descended into Tennessee Valley. The trail brought me down along a dirt path that ended at a road that I thought would be the next aid station; however, this was not the case. I was directed to make a sharp right turn and along a 2-lane country road for around a half mile or so before turning on to what appeared to be a freshly mowed farm field. I thought I had made a mistake - this didn't look like a mountain trail at all! The ribbons on the trees pulled me onward but I was still a little hesitant. I hadn't seen any other runners in a while and at this point in the day I was not particularly interested in venturing too far off course. The trail went through some woods, across a couple of sleepy streams, and brought me to the next aid station - Tennessee Valley, Mile 36.5.

Following the ribbons!!

Over the river and through the woods......

Crews lounging at the laid-back Tennessee Valley Aid Station.

Tennessee Valley was tucked away between rolling hills, horse ranches and organic farms. The atmosphere was laid back and a number of other runners had chosen this point to regroup. Drop bags and crews would be here to provide sustenance and support and the volunteers were eager to help at every turn. We were now about 37 miles in. The preceding few miles had been flat and runnable so I felt pretty good as I cruised in. Michelle surprised me again, as I had not expected to see her until the return trip to Muir Beach. It was another welcome surprise! It turned out that the drive between the aid stations was not that far so she came over to Tennessee Valley. I was so glad she did! I chose to rest for a few minutes at this aid station, taking some time to eat and catch my breath - and I was not alone in this decision. A number of runners were using Tennessee Valley to take inventory of how they felt, what they needed, and to discuss the race (where they had been, where they were going) with crew members, friends and family. I talked to Michelle about the last few miles and the difficult climb out of Muir Beach. Her response was, "Well, I hate to be the one to break this to you, but wait until you see what's in store after you leave here." It was great to have a crew chief who would offer support but still tell it like it is!

It was time to get moving again. Since the next couple miles were uphill again, and I would be hiking anyway, I grabbed a little extra food for the road. 

Climbing out of Tennessee Valley.

The trail at the top of the climb.

At the top of this hill was a tree-lined path that opened up into more climbing and descending. The hills were steep but short. The trails were now solidly dirt and rock and there was little vegetation aside from low-lying brush and weeds. The number of day hikers had also greatly increased. I was asked more than once what we were doing out here and what race we were running. Since I wasn't "running" at that time (like I said, uphill...) I was able to briefly explain what was going on. I am not sure that I was the best ambassador for the sport however. I wasn't in a particularly sunny mood going through that stretch and I hope I was able to at least muster a smile and a cogent enough answer to portray my fellow runners and I in a positive light, as opposed to looking like a group of trail-crazed wackos who needed professional help! 

The next dozen or so miles were kind of a blur for me. The composition of the trail remained dirt as we cruised along the tops of several hills. We passed through an aid station, Bridge View, at mile 41. I stopped to douse my head with water (the temperatures had picked up considerably and there wasn't any cover) before grabbing some food and heading out. As we descended into Rodeo Valley I could really feel soreness in my back and legs from the pounding my quads had taken all day. We were now squarely in the middle of the day and my focus was to keep shuffling. If I could not run, just keep shuffling. I had 7 miles to go to finish this loop and get back to the Tennessee Valley aid station. 

Before descending into Rodeo Valley we were treated to this amazing sight - looking down on the Golden Gate Bridge and downtown San Francisco.

                         "If you're going through hell, keep going." - Winston Churchill

I reached the valley floor and cruised for a mile or 2 on a flat stretch that led to another very long climb. It was at this point that despair began to creep in. I was around 45 miles in, heading uphill again for who knows how long, on legs that felt like lead. Other runners were passing me now with more regularity and I was feeling lost. I began to question my training, my nutrition, and why the hell I was even out here in the first place. Try as I might I could not clear my mind of the thought that I still had almost 20 miles to go. The only thing that kept me going was knowing that Michelle was on the other side of this damn hill waiting for me. I questioned my own inner strength and whether I could push myself on to get there. Did I have what it takes to finish this race? Am I mentally strong enough to get through a mountain race? Doubt can ruin your day just as decisively as any physical injury. I tried to push through and just get to the top of the hill. 

I finally made it to the top and was able to take some shade under the trees. My relief was short lived however as additional climbs lay between me and Tennessee Valley. I continued my pattern of shuffling the flats and hiking the ups. I crested the top of the hill and looked down - WAY down - into Tennessee Valley. I was about 1.5 miles from the aid station. I could see it directly below me. I thought now all I have to do is get down there!

I actually felt strong on this descent and was able to make relatively good time into the aid station. I saw Michelle there and took a few minutes to sit at a picnic table and talk to some of the other runners and crew members. I still felt good from my descent so I didn't want to linger for too long. Michelle filled my water bottles and kept me company while I "powered up". I felt that making it this far practically sealed the deal - I had made it to mile 49! Only 13 to go! I could do that (or so I told myself). Plus there was another aid station only 5 miles away when I would pass back through Muir Beach. I was running very well and thought I had it. Whatever hills were left, bring it on! Michelle and I agreed that she would head to the finish line at Stinson and await me there. I charged out of the aid station and down the road.

I was humbled in a hurry when I turned a corner and saw this:

This one's going to hurt....

What began as my triumphant charge from Tennessee Valley to the finish line actually turned quickly into my darkest hour. About halfway up this hill I ran out of gas again and could not seem to pull it together. I had just snacked on some food but for some reason my body wasn't responding very well. This climb became much more difficult for me than even the previous climb out of Rodeo Valley. "Keep moving. One step at a time." Coming over the hill was a tremendous relief until I saw my next obstacle.

Borrowed from the Miwok website. 

What followed was a steep drop along narrow stairs that led down to Pirate's Cove. My legs were shaking uncontrollably as I tried to navigate the stairs while impatient runners and hikers backed up behind me. I tried to move out of the way but was frustrated with myself that I could not move any faster. The hike down was steep but fortunately short. I only had 3 miles to go to get back to Muir but I just wasn't feeling well at all. I had to walk the rest of the way, even into the aid station, and I fought the demon of doubt the entire way.

At Muir (mile 53.5) I was forced to regroup. I tried to get some food down and I sat on a bench for what seemed like an eternity. I wasn't the only runner in this boat - there were a few others with me who were likewise trying to "pull it together". We offered some mutual encouragement; a couple decided their day was done, and others decided to journey on. We were still well ahead of cutoffs, and with only 9 miles to go I was going to keep moving if I had to walk it in. And walk is what I decided to do. Since I wasn't going to get to Stinson by sitting at Muir Beach I decided it was time to press on. I walked out of the aid station and onto the road ahead.

The next couple of miles were thankfully flat road. I was able to shuffle, then jog, and then actually pick up the pace and run a little. I started to feel better as I ran back across the "farmer's field" from earlier and down that stretch of road. With each step I felt stronger, and as I felt stronger I ran just a little harder. I was about to reach the last major climb of the day - a 2 mile, 1500' climb back up to the Cardiac aid station - and I was actually feeling quite good. As I hit the climb my outlook had brightened tremendously. It was a difficult climb to be sure, but I didn't find this last climb to be quite as tough as some I had faced earlier in the day. And if it was, who cares? It was the LAST big climb of the day. It was straight downhill from Cardiac to Stinson Beach.

On the way up I chatted with a couple of runners who seemed to be in pretty good spirits as well - a local runner named Jeanne and her pacer Juan. We chatted for a few minutes on the way up but ended up splitting up over the course of the climb. I felt strong and surged to the top of the hill, feeling the need to finally put this thing behind me. I stopped at Cardiac and grabbed a quick bite to eat. I made it a point to thank each of the volunteers at this aid station individually - my way of thanking everyone who had come out that day to help (which I was not able to do during the course of the race). While I do not usually consume candy and sugar on the course at this point I really didn't care. I had 3 miles to go so I grabbed a handful of M&M's, some licorice, jellybeans, and a cup of coke.

Candy is my FAVORITE!

I set off to Stinson. I wasn't on the trail for a minute or 2 before Jeanne and Juan caught up to me again. They looked amazing - Jeanne was leading the way and Juan right behind. I asked if I could follow their lead for a bit down the mountain. They said no problem, and away we went! Jeanne and Juan were amazing. We were running absolutely full out, as hard as we could, over roots, rocks, down stairs, over fallen trees...and I was having a blast. We would slow for a couple of occasional short uphills but for the most part we pushed it all the way down. Jeanne led our convoy to the bottom. Juan was in lock step right behind her, bounding down the stairs and keeping his runner focused - in short, being a great pacer. It was very clear to me that she knew what she was doing! Just a couple of hours before I was limping along and struggling to stay positive, but thanks to Jeanne and Juan (and a lot of sugar in my system) I was having as much fun running hard as I ever had. I let go of all the frustrations of the day and just ran. 

Following Jeanne down the trail toward Stinson Beach and the finish line.

As we approached Stinson the path leveled out and our pace slowed slightly. I eased up as well. There was no way I was going into Stinson in front of Jeanne and Juan. They were an incredible team and I owed them a great debt for getting me down the hill so quickly when my confidence had been so shaky. Jeanne was insistent that I run the flat stretch and take us in - she would be right behind me. It was my turn to be in front. If that was going to be the case then I wasn't going to let them down! I ran hard into Stinson and across the finish line. I was ecstatic! Jeanne was in just behind. 

Bringing it home!

The fantastic Jeane Kysar-Carey.

I had lived my Miwok dream! I was overcome with emotion as I accepted my medal from the race director, Tia Boddington. I wanted to pick her up and hug her but I am sure she probably appreciated my restraint. I was so thrilled to be back in Stinson Beach having accomplished a true bucket-lister. While I did have some time goals and hopes for the day that were not fulfilled, I can honestly look back on the race and know that on that day I gave it all I had. There were a number of terrific runners out there on the course that day. I am honored to have been a part of this race.

In previous posts I have mentioned the camaraderie that one experiences around these ultramarathon events. I was so pleased (but not at all surprised) that the feeling of community is just as strong out in California as I have experienced at home in Texas. California has a reputation of being pretty laid-back anyway, so it seems that the birthplace of ultrarunning (Gordy Ainsleigh and Western States 100) would be a natural fit for these kinds of events. This course was a complete change from anything I had seen or done before, and while I am slowly starting to feel like myself again, I can't wait to get back up into the mountains again. It'll be a few months until my next ultra but for now I can reflect on this race, what I learned, and the friends I made that day. Thanks to my wife Michelle for her unending love and support, to all the volunteers for their selfless service, to Jeanne and Juan for allowing me to hitch a ride, and to Tia for pulling my number out of her hat! I hope that someday I have the good fortune to venture back to the Marin Headlands and have another go at this iconic event.